Tag Archives: shooting

Feb 5 2013

Setting up a target boss

target boss in garden

Setting up a boss is a common activity, but requires some thought and care to ensure it is done correctly and safely whether this be on a course or as in this example in the garden. In this article I will try and cover some of the things to consider.

Target

Target set up and ready?

Here you can see a boss having been erected ready for practise. Looks good?

One commonly made mistake when setting up a boss is forgetting to check where the metal binding for the plastic strapping is located.

closeup

These should always be on the back of the boss and never facing the direction of the shot.

Why?

The binding can damage arrow tips if they are hit. I have also seen arrows shot from a compound bow hit one of these metal fastenings and bounce straight back some 15 yards landing at the archers feet.

You should also ensure the wood frame of the boss is always to the side and not on top or bottom.

Why?

If the arrow falls low, it will run the risk of hitting and embedding itself in the wooden frame, which is likely to  result in some work to extract.

If the arrow impacts at the top of the boss it runs the risk of deflecting off in any direction . So rotate the boss to ensure the wood frames are on the side of the boss.

Target Boss

Target Boss

Location, location, location – no not the property program commonly seen in UK.

Look at the space surrounding the boss – there appears to be a stile behind and to the right of the boss, does this mean there is a footpath?

What about the space behind the boss with regards to overshoot. A safe over shoot area is vital for any target positioning.

N.B. we own the field beyond the gate and the boss usually lives in the field.

Any  there any other risks?

Well yes there are. There is a building to the side so you wouldn’t be able to see people approaching from that direction.

The metal gate is also a risk as if an arrow misses the boss and hits the gate it is likely to deflect in any direction.

Securing the boss to the stakes is vital to ensure it doesn’t topple over when arrows are removed. It is worth considering whether the stakes need to be proud of the boss. Also try to put them to the side or rear of the boss frame so as to avoid or limit the number of arrows hitting them.

Those are a few thoughts and tips to consider when positioning practise bosses. Have you got any further advice or tips?

We are fortunate in owning the field and knowing there is no public access or routes to it other than via our boundary.

I hope you find this article of interest and if you have any comments let me know. Thanks for reading.

Jan 7 2013

What to do during winter months

First of all, Happy New year to all readers.

Okay, so the winter months are here, short days and long nights with not much chance of shooting.

If you are a gardener you could be reading seed catalogues for the next growing year, if you are a warm weather lover you could be looking at holiday brochures, but if you are an archer what do you do?

Well you could be practising indoors if you have the option and facilities.

or

You might be cross referencing the latest catalogues and internet sites to work out the best combination of carbon arrows for the bow (think this is the closest we get to checking seed catalogues). I know this is something Sharon is doing at present in her quest to find some carbon arrows for next season.

or

Something you might find useful to do is review targets?

What do I mean? Don’t they all look the same? After all a circular target is the same day in day out. Well yes, if you are shooting at a circular target.  But in the field archery I shoot you aren’t shooting circular targets. I’m shooting either 3D animal targets or animal paper faces.

How is it scored?

Well if you hit with your first arrow you can score 20 points for a kill shot and 16 points for wound (if you get an inner kit you score 24 points)

If you miss with your first arrow you are allowed to take another shot from the second peg.  If you hit, you can score 14 points for a kill shot and 10 points for wound (if you get an inner kit you score 14 points i.e. no difference now as the bonus points are only if you hit with first arrow).

If you miss with your second arrow you can take a third and final shot from the last peg. From there you can score 8 points for a kill shot and 4 points for wound (if you get an inner kit you score 8 points)

JVD Boar

JVD Boar

The image above shows clearly the 3 scoring zones. The outer most line is the wound line. The next in is the kill line and the smallest is the inner kill.

As you can see not all the animal scores on paper faces so if you hit a leg, you don’t get anything.

There are now hundreds of animal faces and 3D targets on the market (JVD, Martin, Delta and Maple Leaf to name a few)  and if a course is laid well you should never be faced with the same target face on a shoot.  Also new target faces are always arriving on the market,  Merlin Archery in the UK have recently produced some fantastic quality paper target faces.

Target face - merlin boar

Merlin Boar

Another good target they produce is their ram.

target face - merlin ram

Merlin Ram

The only downside I have found with these faces, is they tend to reflect light so be careful course layers and try to avoid putting them in direct sunlight. Think they are changing this in next batch.

The problem with having all these faces, is trying to remember them all and know where the key high scoring areas are. In the NFAS only a few bow classes can use memory aids  such as booklets of targets faces or phone apps. For the rest of us we have to try and remember.

I’ve lost track of how many different boar or deer faces are on the market at present. All slightly different in size and shape. Some are life size others are reduced.

Likewise there are hundreds of different 3D targets out there too.

3d javalina

3d Javalina

A good tip I have been given is to aim for the leg line when shooting a 3D target, as if you drop low you are still in the leg. Downside of this means you aren’t in the highest scoring areas, but at least you don’t blank the target.

3d Turkey

3d Turkey

Anyway it is something to do, whilst we wait for the longer days and the season to start

As always thanks for reading and good luck for 2013.

Dec 11 2012

Winter Shooting

I think I’m more a winter person than a hot weather person. I prefer winter sports like skiing to sitting on a beach slowly turning into a lobster 😉

This means i shoot throughout the year. But it does mean I have to wrap up which can make archery challenging.

winter shooting

winter shooting, yes that is snow on the arrow.

As yet we’ve not had any snow but we have had lots of rain. Many of you will have seen the news footage of flooding effecting large parts of UK. Here is one from one of our old clubs in Derbyshire, the boss is not meant to be under water. In fact there’s not meant to be any water there, the stream running down the side of the course had flooded.

Flooded target

Flooded target

We’ve had a few hard frosts, but so long as we can get to the woods it doesn’t stop us

Sharon shooting in the snow

Sharon shooting in the snow

Good cold weather gear is vital. So I thought I might share my experiences and thoughts.Like when skiing i work on the layering approach. Billy Connolly I think once said on one of his TV shows  “there is no such thing as bad weather just wrong clothing”

  • Base layer of icebreaker Marino wool i have found to be perfect. It keeps you warm when you need to be and doesn’t develop that synthetic feel other base layers do. Sadly they aren’t cheap but well worth it.
  • Disposable hand warmer are useful to carry in a pocket
  • Decent waterproof boots are essential
  • Decent windproof / water proof  breathable gore-tex jacket that you can move and shoot in.
  • Don’t wear jeans. If they get wet, heat will leach out of you as they take an eternity to dry. I use a pair of Craghopper Kiwi lined trousers and when very cold a base layer below.
  • Fleece shirt and body warmer (Ideally windproof).
  • Warm hat and neck scarf or ideally neck buff will keep you warm. One thing I’ve not mentioned are gloves. Flip over mittens work well. These are finger less gloves with a loop of fabric that fits over the fingers so making them into mittens.
  • Snacks energy bars and liquid ideally a warm flask. I tend to have a mug flask with hot fruit cordial on my belt and a flask of spicy soap in car.

Don’t get too hot. may sound strange but if you get too warm and start to sweat you can very easily catch cold and that can lead to hypothermia.  It doesn’t have to be 3 ft snow to catch hypothermia, it can set in at above freezing point as it is based on your body temperature dropping. so please take care.

Last thing is to consider of how you are getting home. I’ve been to a number of shoots where the biggest problem is leaving. Tracks have been churned up by cars or snow has changed to hard packed ice. I carry a towrope, small spade, length of old carpet and jump leads just in case and I’ve used them all at shoots.

There is a layer of compacted snow into sheet ice

There is a layer of compacted snow into sheet ice

I also keep a change of shoes and a few blankets in the car just in case.

So if you have any tips or advice please add them here. As always thanks for reading and Happy Christmas