How do you track your progress

In this episode (episode 130) of the podcast, I do my best to answer a question from a follower. The question is about how you go about tracking your progress and monitoring your improvement in archery over time.

I break the process down into tracking progress when shooting at your home club grounds and when you venture out onto competitions. It’s a tactic I have used for several years and the process works well.

I’m not going to be giving advice on how you improve your archery in this episode, it’s solely about tracking your progress.

Home club

The difficulty with shooting the same course is you don’t always focus in the same way, you can become a little complacent resulting in a lack of focus in the same way. I’ve used this phrase in the past ” You learn to shoot the coach and targets, you don’t learn to read the shot.”

In NFAS the goal is to shoot as few arrows as possible when at a competition, as your first arrow will score the highest being 24 pts / 20 pts / 16 pts. If you take a second arrow this will score 14 pts / 10 pts, with a third arrow scoring 8 pts or 4 pts. Remember in the most commonly used course round in NFAS, the Big game round you only get to shoot a max of 3 arrows. If you miss with the third and final arrow you blank the target i.e. score 0 points.

There are other rounds but the Big Game round is by far the most commonly used.

The first thing you will be wanting to track are the number of blanks you have when you are shooting. Chances are when you are starting out you will be getting quite a few of these. As I explained earlier a blank is when you shoot all 3 arrows but fail to score. You obviously want to try to reduce the number of blanks and over time as your skill improves you will, replacing them with a successful hit.

The next this you will want to track are the number of 3rd arrows which are scoring. Note down what you scored, was it a 4 or an 8. Ideally an 8 means you have learnt from the 2 previous misses, compensated and produced a good shot.

You also want to track the number of 2nd arrows and what you scored, was it a 10 pts or 14pts . A 14 normally means you have been able to correct you mistake or misjudgement, nailing it the second time.

The final step is to track the number of 1st arrows and what you scored, was it a 16, 20 or a 24. You goal is to increase the number of first shots that hit.

Over time you will see your arrow count reduce and scores gradually improve, but it may take time. So please be patient with yourself and kind to yourself. Its also worth noting any other variables, like different arrows, or if the weather such as strong winds or rain impacted your shooting.

At open competition

When you start going out to competitions you still want to continue to track your blanks, 1st, 2nd and 3rd arrows as a point of reference as this can indicate how things are progressing over time.

The other method of tracking progress is to identify a base line as a comparison. The thing to remember is that NFAS courses can vary greatly, this means no 36 or 40 target course can be identical to another. Even if you shoot the same clubs course on multiple occasions chances are there will be differences, whether that be 3d targets used, peg positions or even the weather.

Therefore, it’s a good tactic to identify someone act as a baseline. Ideally the person chosen should be someone who shoots consistently. Not like me who have good or bad days. If you can track their scores and compare it to yours you will be able to judge how challenging the course would have been.

Lets say the you scored 400 and your baseline person Mr Smith scored 600, a difference of 200. Next time you shoot you get 350 and Mr Smith gets 550, still a difference of 200 you know it was probably a more challenging course.

Then on the following course you score 500 and Mr Smith scored 600, you know you’ve probably improved.

I hope this helps and enjoy your archery.

Episode 123 – special guests Austin and Courtney of St Joe River Bows

I am very fortunate in this episode to have two very special guests grace the airways with me. Austin and Courtney Motte of St Joe River Bows, over in Michigan United States.

They took time out of their very busy schedule of making bows to record the episode where we get to spend the time talking about everything from bow making, shows they have been too and are heading to and being a British podcast we briefly discuss the weather.

If you are in the states and heading over to ETAR this year, they will have a stand there.

They are a lovely couple and huge supporters of young archers in the traditional archery community. Please take some time to check out their website (https://stjoeriverbows.com/) which is packed with photos of some of their lovely looking bows. I’ve been fortunate to see some of their bows up close and being shot and been very impressed.

If you are interested you can contact them via the website or their Instagram – https://www.instagram.com/stjoeriverbowsoffical/

As always there is a link to Amazon music (https://music.amazon.co.uk/podcasts/c649e917-695a-4c30-aa50-d99742ccd824/episodes/9f2e4818-f1bb-46aa-aa45-09e9e5eb5511/off-the-arrow-shelf-episode-123-%E2%80%93-special-guests-austin-and-courtney-of-st-joe-river-bows) and Spotify

As always thanks for listening.

The Shocq Digital archery scale close up

Episode 121 – Equipment Review – Shocq Bow scales

What is your actual draw weight on your bow?

At first glance, this seems both an easy question to answer and a common question especially if you have a draw below or over 28 inches. The truth is that unless you have had the bow weight measured at the archery shop when you buy your bow, you can’t be guaranteed to know what the draw weight is at your draw length. Yes, I know all bows or limbs will have a draw weight shown on them, but this is always measured at a 28-inch draw and we all know that not all archers have a 28-inch draw.

There is a theory I have heard countless times that for every inch past 28 inches you draw, you add 2 pounds to the draw weight. This can provide a rough guide, but should only be considered an estimate, as the true figure will depend on the bow length, limb materials, limb and bow design etc. To provide an insight into what I mean I’ll give an example of when this doesn’t work. A couple of years ago I took a newly signed off archer to a local archery store to buy their first bow.  The archer has a 30 inch draw and we tested out four sets of limbs from different manufacturers. All showed 26lbs at 28 inches. With his 30-inch draw,  you’d expect a draw weight of approximately 30lbs. However when tested they ranged from 30lb to 37lbs.

For this reason, I decided it was time to buy a digital bow scale. There are several on the market and the one I opted for was the Shocq Digital Archery Scales. I purchased mine from Merlin Archery for £11.99.

The Shocq Digital archery scale close up
Close up of the Shocq Digital archery scale

It’s very easy to use with a single button acting as the on/off switch, the same switch is used as a reset.

Display showing the digital scale switched on
Display showing the digital scale switched on

The display is clear and shows both the Peak load and Holding weight. This is really useful in my view as I know there are some archers who, in their draw sequence, draw past their anchor point and then settle back down to their anchor. This means it can show the maximum draw weight and the weight you are holding on your fingers at anchor.

Display showing the Peak load and Hold Load
Display showing the Peak load and Hold Load

The hook on the back of the device is designed to loop around your bowstring. Personally, I’d like to have something like a lock on this so there is no chance of drawing back and string slipping out (Something highly unlikely to happen but better safe than sorry in my view).

The Shocq Digital archery scale close up on the hook attachment
Hook attachment of the Shocq Digital archery scale

You will need to think carefully when you draw up using this. If you draw up to your anchor point with the analyser in hand, chances are you will effectively be short drawing.

Why? Chances are you will draw and stop when your hand reaches your face when in reality you need to draw a little further back so the string is actually at your normal anchor point.

I’ve recorded my thoughts on the digital scale, you can view here or on YouTube channel )if you find it useful hit the Like button)

In summary, it’s an inexpensive addition to my coaching kit that has already paid dividends in helping archers I’ve been coaching recently.

When I have the time, I plan to go through all mine and club coaching bows to check their actual draw weights.

This is the first in a series of equipment reviews I’m producing for this site and podcast.

Thanks for reading.