Shoot Report – Wolverine September 2012

It’s been a couple of years since I’ve last shot Wolverine course, but last weekend we headed up there. Situated just past stoke it took a little over an hours drive from the new house, though the rain showers we drove through made us wonder if it was going to be a dry day..
The course itself is mostly on a large wooded hillside with paths criss-crossing and lots of up and down shots. We were all grateful that the rain stayed away as the paths would have been very slippery otherwise.
The course layers have a reputation for laying a challenging course and they lived up to this reputation on the day. It was a very well laid course making great use of deadground to make you under or over estimate the distances to the target.
Our shooting group was made up of Paul Jones (from North Wales club shooting Compound unlimited) Sharon and Bob Davies a Black Arrow member shooting his Longbow.
Sharon and Bob

Sharon and Bob

It was really good to catch up with Bob and Jim from Black Arrow who we also saw and was shooting in the group infront, as we’d not seen them since moving house. Jim is doing well with his new Flatbow, and I had the opportunity to chat with him about his new arrows.

He’s bought some arrows from Dreamcatcher arrows and I must say they look great and not overly pricey form what Jim said.

There were about 180 archers there and it ran very smoothly with no long hold ups.
Back to the course and shooting. Not great start blanking the first target, despite hitting it twice the arrows glanced off twice!! One either side of a small 3d partridge. One of the new part 3d targets where other it only a 3d from the front. Our second target was a standing bear, through the trees.

Paul shooting Standing bear

Paul shooting Standing bear target 2

Bob Shooting 3d Deer

Bob Shooting 3d Deer in the afternoon

The real downer on the day and made me really angry was at the lunch break, when an inconsiderate archer who had stopped early so he could get to the lunch tent walked across my shooting line when I was drawing up. It was dangerous and ignorant.

How Far is Kong

As always they had Kong out this time at about 77-80 yards. Kong is a huge home made gorilla 3d target over 11ft tall  which they placed in a field. Banked it with first falling between legs and 2&3 drifting left. The video below gives you an idea of distance and size

The course was mainly 3d targets with a few paper faces.
Liked the standing bear paper face, looked really good and well placed.
Sharon shoot at 3D

Sharon shoot at 3D

Sharon did well winning Ladies Barebow. Though she did get some lucky shots, with her arrows just staying in the target.
Sharons arrow

Sharons arrow is the top one.

I would like to say that I had shot well, but truthfully I shot terribly at a level I have not shot since starting. It has been a real confidence hit and I’m not sure what I will do. I don’t know whether to continue with flatbow or go back to Hunting tackle. Either way I really need to improve 😦
Thanks for reading

Buying equipment – first bits and pieces part 1

Having been inspired by some of the recent articles on here, including ones by Jordan Sequillion I thought I would put a posting together on buying equipment as a newbie. The only problem is it grew longer and longer, so I thought I would do a couple of postings, so here goes.

This is very much an overview and I’ll go into more details in future postings.

As a coach I often get asked by students about buying a bow, how much do they cost, what should I got for, where can I get one, I’ve seen one on ebay,etc. I always reply by saying wait a few weeks or couple of months, use the club equipment for now until you have a better idea of what is a good buy.

But sooner or later your students will want to purchase their own bow (which is great don’t get me wrong) but there are a few things that might be worth getting first. So I have put this post together to offer some advice

First things for any new archer to buy (before a bow) should be

  • A tab or glove of their own, normally I recommend a beginner starts with a tab, it’s easier on their fingers and promotes good finger position on the string
Simple finger tab

Simple finger tab

  • Belt quiver, you can pay a small fortune for some quivers, but when you are starting go for something simple.

    simple belt quiver

    simple belt quiver

  • Arrow puller, makes life easier for drawing arrows
  • Whistle (for safety calls and is a necessity for insurance on some sites)
  • An arm bracer or arm guard that fits (doesn’t fall down the arm or is too tight and cuts off circulation, and they like, there are loads of different designs, some that go all the way up the arm some that only cover the forearm.
Leather arm guard

Leather arm guard

  • Arrow rake for finding those arrows that fall short (a cheap decorating roller can be used, once modified for the purpose )

What kind of bow should I buy?

As a first bow the best is the take down recurve practise bow in my view.

They are relatively cheap (£55-£75 depending on where you get them), so if they don’t stick with it it’s not such a huge investment. Also you might be able to pick one up from club member who has progressed.

The limbs can be upgraded to heavier poundage as archer develop their strength and skill (I did this after a few months myself, with some shops giving a discount if you trade your old limbs in )

They are forgiving to use which is what you want as a beginner.

They come in a vast variety of sizes, shapes, poundage so good for all abilities, heights, draw lengths etc so are easy to find one suitable for all shapes and sizes of archer.

A basic beginners recurve doesn’t require as much maintenance as a longbow,  compound or performance recurve. Sharon still has her first bow and we use it for coaching all the time and its over 4 years old.

Arrows – for arrows I tend to recommend aluminium arrows for a beginner, they are durable and cheap. Easton Neos Beginners Alloy Arrow work well and come in variety of lengths and spines.

I tend to recommend avoiding carbon arrows at this stage even though you can get them for less than aluminium. There tend not to be as durable if they catch the side of a target or branch and some clubs don’t allow beginners to use them. They are also harder to find in the undergrowth with a metal detector.

Where should I buy my first bow from?

  • NOT eBay – there is nothing wrong with eBay before anyone says anything. I simple would not advise anyone to buy their first bow off it, as you don’t know the history or condition of the bow.
  • Try before you buy –  really important, try bows of different draw weights, bow lengths and manufacturers. You will find that some limbs will feel harder to draw than others
  • Visit local shop – There are a number of archery shops (Quicks, Merlin etc) round the country and all quality ones will give you the opportunity to try first and spend time with you. My first bow was bought from Quicks Archery and they were very helpful and spent time explaining everything. (If possible take an experienced person with you when looking to buy one ideally your coach or fellow club member)

Ok that is a start, I’ll add more and another post on other facts to consider like draw weights, measuring exact draw length for arrows etc, comfort and bow lengths etc next week

Thanks for  reading, let me know what you think.

Pulling Arrows a few tips and thoughts

Ok so it sounds easy, grab hold of the end not in the target and pull.

Well yes you can do that but you run the risk of bending the arrow or worse snapping it, resulting in a broken arrow and possible injury to yourself. I must admit to cringing sometimes when I see archers pull arrows from a boss or 3D target.

I’ve seen carbon arrows snap resulting in the archer slicing his finger open. (I’ve had to patch them up too when this has happened) or wooden arrows bending into a banana as someone is a little over zealous when drawing them.

So I thought I would write an entry on what I see is a safer ways of drawing arrows. It was something that was stressed at the NFAS coaching course I did, but it still amazes me that not everyone does it safely.

Please remember these are my views and personal advice.

Before I go any further I would say it is worth investing in an arrow puller or grip as this gives you greater grip on to the arrow. In the case of carbon arrows it also reduces the risk of getting carbon splinters.

Drawing the arrow – dos and don’ts explained

First off its important that all archers get to  see where their shots have landed in the target. In a competition you shouldn’t touch any arrows until the scores have been taken and agreed.

Always ask if its ok to draw other archers arrows, some people will want to draw their own arrows.

Always check behind you before you draw. Never stand directly in front of boss or target,  as the person drawing may not see you and poke you with arrow they are drawing.

As with everything there is a right way and several wrong ways to do things, this is the same as with pulling arrows.

Drawing arrows badly

Drawing arrows badly

Never grab from the end as this will result in bending or snapping the arrow. The method shown in the picture above will result in bent or broken arrow. Always hold at base of arrow never the end

Never use your thumb on top as this can lead to bending arrow

The method shown in the picture below with the thumb on top of arrow will result in force being applied downwards and this can cause it to bend.

gripping arrow

Gripping arrow using your thumb

Always put palm on the boss and pull with other hand

The method shown in the picture below is what I advise as the correct way, grasping arrow with fingers (not using the thumb)  and other hand on target. By holding the target with the other hand you can judge how stable it is.

I’ve seen archers pull and arrow and the boss or 3D target fall on them as it wasn’t well secured or stable.

Drawing arrows

Drawing arrows with one hand on the boss to steady it

Last piece of advice would be to put your bow down somewhere safe before you start drawing arrows. Avoiding putting them on top of the target as they can easily fall and become damaged.

Hope  you find this of use, and please add any comments or feedback.

As always thanks for reading.