Finished arrows in the sun

Equipment Review – Goblin Snot Paint

Goblin Snot paints

Goblin Snot paints

Okay, so this is not one of the most pleasant sounding products I have encountered, but if you can look past the name you can have pretty decent paint.
Lee Ankers of Heritage Longbows was kind enough to provide me with same sample colours (pink, white, orange and purple) to try out. There are obviously other colours but these would prove to provide a good selection as it offered both light colours and darker shades. If you check out their website for full colour list of what is available. (
Before I applied them to the shafts that would become arrows I tried the paints out on some off cuts to get used to applicator and how many coats might be needed.
Samples after one coat

Samples after one coat

I did have a play at applying the paint to a pre varnished shaft, which worked petty well giving an even coat but it didn’t seem to adhere as well. I did find if I then applied a couple of coats of clear varnish over the top it did protect the paint.
I applied the paints to the bare wooden Port Orford Cedar shafts, after giving them a quick sand to remove any dust of rough patches.
First stage - orange being applied

First stage – orange being applied

Since Sharon wanted two contrasting colours on her arrows, I used masking tape to avoid me covering areas I wanted to cover in a different colour and to form an edge.
Second stage with the pink being applied

Second stage with the pink being applied

Firstly I have to admit I really like the purple. I’ve never been a huge fan of the colour in the past, but it works well for contrast. I’ve made up a few arrows with purple cresting and bright yellow fletchings and they work really well, as the contrast means you can see the arrows in flight and stand out in a number of target faces really well.
Bit dark, but purple shaft with bat wing fletching

Bit dark, but purple shaft with bat wing fletching

The orange and purple go on very easily and after a couple of coats, you can a good deep colour and covering. The white and pink need a little more work, taking three to four coats to get a consistent covering, which is expected really as being a lighter colour.
I’ve included a few photos of the arrows I made up for Sharon with the pink and orange as these happen to be matching to her fletching colours. The orange had two coats and the pink three or four.
I left the paint to dry for a couple of hours between coats, giving a very light sanding to ensure a clean smooth surface for each of the coats.
The paint goes on easily enough, once you get the hang of using the applicator, which has a sponge on the top of the bottle.
One tip is not to squeeze the bottle to much as you’ll end up with loads coming out. (Yes, this happened to me and fortunately I had put some old newspaper down just in case as I have been know to make a slight mess).
I’ve varnished with a clear acrylic varnish from a local model / hobby craft store.
Close up of a couple of finished arrows

Close up of a couple of finished arrows

Another tip would be to take your time when applying to make sure you have an even application.
Finished arrows in the sun

Finished arrows in the sun

Overall I think they work pretty well, being easy to apply and drying evenly.
Thanks for reading.

Stick and String podcast – beginners equipment

stick and string

I was listening to Stick and String recent podcast on beginners equipment and I thought it worth mentioning here. The podcast can be found at

They discuss and offer advice to the newbie archer on what to buy and from where.

I suggest any archer looking to purchase their first bow has a listen to it. They reference their own experience with over bowing and the problems it can cause.

Later in to the podcast it offers advice on arrow selection and merits and flaws of different materials.  Have a listen and let me know what you think.

Other sources of advice can be found on this site or on Jordan Sequillion blog

Thanks for reading.

Equipment Review – Bearpaw 3D Steel Screw-On Points

Okay, to go with my literature reviews (which reminds me I need to finish the write-up on the next one) I thought I’d make a few comments on equipment and bits that I use. Please remember these views are personal, feel free to agree or disagree. If you have any experience of using the items mentioned please let me know it would be great to know how they work for other archers.

The first item I’m going to review is not that exciting for most of you. Piles , no not the sort you see the doctor about 😉 I’m talking about the sort you fit to the end of your arrows in this case wood arrows. Over the years I have used a variety of different styles and metals including brass and steel.
On a recent trip to Merlin archery I picked up some Bearpaw screw on piles. I had mentioned to Chris I was experiencing a problem with loss of piles in some 3D targets recently and he suggested I try these piles. He also commented that they should self centre well onto the shaft.
They are longer than the type I had used previously (brass 3D points) but still a taper fit.
So how have they worked?
Well I’ve been using them now for a few months and I am very impressed. I’ve not as not had any come off in 3D or foam targets.
They do appear to self centre when fitting to the wood shafts, which saves a lot of time and hassle. I think this is due to the extra length giving a cleaner and straighter fit.
I’ve fitted them to Port Orford Cedar and Sitka spruce 11/32 shafts without any difficulty. I apply them with a small amount of 2 part adhesive to the shaft and then screw them on by hand. No need to use any power tools or pliers, if you need to I’ve found that you can remove them by heating on a gas ring burner and using pair of pliers.
 Bearpaw 3D Steel Screw-On Point – are available in

  • 11/32 – 100 grains /125 grains
  • 5/16 100 grains /70 grains
Bearpaw Screw-On 3D Point  are also available in Aluminium in – 5/16 – 40 grains though I’ve not used these, so can’t give you any feedback on them.

Hope readers find this of use. Thanks for reading